Diving Mahahual Costa Maya Mexico // Dive Cruise // Alux Divers
Costa Maya Dive January 2020
Once docked at the pier at Costa Maya, our ship’s captain came on the intercom system to give a wind report – high winds, 15-20 knots which is more than that in mph. Winds rising mid afternoon.
We called Alux Divers, and Alex assured us it was a good day, so we headed off the ship to the taxi lineup.
Travel to Mahahual
From the cruise ship pier in Costa Maya, where two other ships joined us, it’s a bit of a walk around the compound to get to the outside gates and taxis. Standard fare to Mahahual is $8 a taxi. We were told $24 for a van; we countered with $20 and off we went.
Upon arrival at Mahahual, we hoped to see maybe the winds would lay down and the seas diminish a bit. The waves had been pounding into the stern of our cruise ship at the pier, shaking the whole ship. That was a bit nerve-wracking, but most likely just a coincidence of wave direction and stern architecture.
Decision Time
Once on site, we realized a few things. We were on day four of diving, with three long tiring days of diving behind us, and the two teenagers in our group were a bit weary of diving. Also, four of our group are newer divers, and were nervous about the waves, getting in and out of the boat, and visibility.
The last time Bill and I were in Costa Maya, the weather and waves were so bad that the port was closed. We had to wait for the port to open to go out. It was a choppy ride out, albeit very short to the outside of the reef. Getting in the boat took a bit of coordination.
Decision to Scrub the Dive
While the conditions were not necessarily unsafe, with four of our group not so eager, we scrubbed the dive. Alex was unbelievably understanding, presented us with t-shirts, stickers, and an immediate refund. He even let us store our dive gear in his dive shack while we walked around, ate, swam, and had a beach-side massage.
We watched the winds increase, admired the views, and watched the other dive boats come and go. As always, you wonder – did you make a mistake cancelling? Would it have been a mistake to go? All you know for sure is that when the little voice inside says “no,” it’s best to listen.
What We Learned
In hindsight, maybe having the children dive every other day would have been less intense for them. Another option would have been for me and Bill to go ahead and dive – but we weren’t sure about jettisoning the rest of our group, or even if the boat would allow only two divers to go.
The winds did increase as predicted that afternoon. The port did not close. We probably would have been fine. What we decided for Costa Maya in the future is to be far more flexible. Next time, we will wait until we arrive, and simply walk dive shop to dive shop looking for a last-minute add-on dive. There are so many shops; it looks like that would be a possibility at this location.
Post Non-Dive
Alux Divers is in Mahahual, next to Nohoch Kay that is mentioned on Cruise Critic often. They have incredible fish tacos – order them one at a time, because one taco actually is two servings.
We ordered a medium mixed ceviche; it’s enough for six people with leftovers. Drinks are available at bars with seaside swings and great views.
Massages run $20-$30 for 45 minutes, and I can tell you – mine was phenomenal.
The Malecon up and down the beach features vendors selling handmade goods, boutique hotels and small restaurants, open bars and massages. We saw rental bicycles and those hoover thingies – where you stand up and put your feet side by side and zip around upright while wearing a helmet, knee pads, elbow pads.
Understanding Operator
Alux Divers was understanding of the comfort level of our less-experienced dive partners, and adjusted accordingly. They issued a full refund before we had even left their shop.
The reef everyone dives is right off the beach, and beginning divers perform checkout dives on the inside of the reef.
Mahahual Much Nicer Than Tulum
Last time, in March, there was piles of sargasso everywhere. This time we saw very little. It’s a funky little town with a nice setup of small boutique hotels across the malecon, and full access for everyone on the beachside. Taxi rides are $8 a full taxi in either direction.
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