LIFESTYLE

Repairing a Broken $140 Accent Kayak Paddle for $15

On September 10, 2020
By Kimberly

Last weekend we decided to teach ourselves how to conduct the self-assist and the “T” methods of re-entering your kayak when you fall in the water, and Bill broke his $140 Accent kayak paddle.

We decided to repair rather than replace the carbon paddle. Here’s how we fixed his broken paddle. The Repair Wrap that had recently solved a plumbing issue seemed perfect. It’s like a lightweight fiberglass; only in a small enough quantity that it’s affordable and manageable for small repairs.

Step 1 Sanding and Preparation

First we sanded the broken splintered end to prepare it to adhere to the wrap. Then we followed the directions on the Repair Wrap instructions.

The initial step in the Repair Wrap instructions is to fill any holes with the two-part expoxy-type putty. We blended the putty, then worked a little bit of it into the lines where the end of the paddle broke.

Next we laid out all the supplies we would need; scissors, duct tape, knives, permanent marker and pen, and gloves for handling the Repair Wrap.

The cracks were hairline cracks; hard to see. However, there were four or five, so the paddle was unusable and the two ends fell apart instead of fitting together smoothly.

Step 2 Preserving the Markings

Because this paddle is able to be assembled in several different angles, there is an area with degree of angle markings from 0 to 60 degrees of angle feathering left or right.

We didn’t want to lose those feathering marks, so we transferred them onto duct tape so that we could later recreate them on top of the patched area.

Step 3 Applying the Wrap

After a quick soak; the Repair Wrap is ready to be wound around whatever you plan to repair. I believe this is a type material and process similar to what is used in casts for broken bones.

We worked quickly – no photos of this stage because all hands were involved in the sticky process. The length of material we used was about 12 inches; enough to go around twice. Trimming the wrap on a 45-degree angle meant we could “fade” the splice in a bit more neatly.

Step 4 Compressing the Wrap

A strip of black material is included in the Repair Wrap kit. It’s used to wrap around and compress the wrap.

Surprisingly, the wrap does flatten down nicely. We hoped to avoid a big bulky white wad of material right in the middle of the paddle.

Step 5 Neaten and Trim

With the tolerance on the paddle joint coupling lower than a millimeter, some gentle sanding where a few strands of the Repair Wrap extended beyond the natural end of the paddle was necessary.

After both ends were cleaned up, the paddle ends engaged fully. Both ends of the kingpin connection fit back together perfectly, and the patch was not too bulky or rough.

Step 6 Remarking the Paddle

The next challenge involved several steps. We wished to transer the degree of angle markings back to the paddle, but not on top of the white material.

Also, we had to protect the end of the paddle joint at that kingpin connection because with the tolerance on that coupling lower than one millimeter, even a single coating of spray would prevent the coupling from engaging.

First we taped off the area past our splice, as well as the ferrule button that releases the coupling. Then, we sprayed the Repair Wrap with some generic matte black spray paint. If I’d known of the Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Matte Black spray paint, I would have used that! Then we sealed the entire area with a coating of Krylon Matte Finish, non-yellowing clear spray.

The reason for applying a clear coat before restoring the angle markings is in case of an error. If the markings looked sloppy; we could simply wipe them off and make them again due to the sealed base.

Luckily, I chose a skinny enough paintbrush, and the painted white markings were relatively neat. Not perfect, but adequate.

Then a final matte clear coat was applied to protect the markings.

Considerations

We know that as the paddle is used, reinforcing one area can lead to a weaker spot just beyond that area. Since the fragmented section was at the very end, we are hoping that won’t be the case.

Yes, the clear coat will wear off, and so will the black coat. They really were added for aesthetics. Plus, the desire to preserve the markings. Since they are near the end, they won’t be the main areas where hands will wear down any coatings.

We really wanted to avoid that “broken arm” look of a bulky white cast. However, we can re-touchup anytime we wish.

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